| We are still in Lukla. Nobody ever stays in Lukla for more than a day
or two and we have been here 9 days already. Why? We are still waiting
for fuel. The bad news is that our people in Kathmandu have failed to
send the army fuel sample to Singapore, 'can't be done' apparently.
Seems daft that 3 litres of petrol can't go in an aeroplane when it is
carrying tons of its own fuel at the same time, but there you are. The
good news is that our 800 litres of AVGAS will apparently begin to
arrive
tomorrow.... There is also other good news, our CAA permission, due to
run out at the end of this week (and we haven't done any flying yet) has
been extended for a month, so there are no more worries on that score.
My brother Barty arrived a couple of days ago. He has been in Nepal
several times and knows the score; his main job is to help out with
getting the microlight ready to go. This is a complicated job, not just
getting the machine itself rigged and ready to fly, but getting me
dressed is as complicated as any spaceman's outfit; radio, electrically
heated suit, oxygen, reserve oxygen Etc. Etc. and all this has to be
done at 4 in the morning so we are ready to take off as early as
possible.
Barty also arrived with a replacement satellite modem. The last one,
brand new, wasn't working properly, this one is fine, so at last we have
good comms. Most importantly, we can collect our weather reports from
Adventureweather.com which you can also see on this site. So how does
the weather look? Well, not good for the next week or so anyway, the
jetstream seems to be hovering exactly over our area giving winds at the
summit of 20-40 metres per second (70 - 140 Km/h) which is way too high
for us, we are looking for winds of 15 m/sec maximum, and preferably
less than 10. Looking at previous years there are maybe 3 opportunities
for this sort of light winds in May, the only caveat being that most of
the sherpas I have consulted on weather seem to think the monsoon is
coming early this year; normlly it should be 1 June.... We have met
several people returning from trekking peaks who have reported unusual
amounts of snow for this time of year and apparently there is one metre
of snow at the advance base camp on the north side which is very
unusual.
All this time in Lukla has not been wasted, we have been perfecting our
kit and double checking that it is all working properly, and we are
staying in a place which by Barty's estimation is the most luxurious he
has ever seen in the Khumbu valley apart from the Everest View Hotel
above Syangboche which costs $200 + per night. In a place where the
facilities in most lodges are fairly basic this Khangri resort is
positively luxurious; en-suite bathrooms with hot water in the evenings,
sheets on the beds and even hot water bottles! The chef, considering
the available resources, is an absolute master and comes up with the
most delicious food - and much too much of it - I was slightly hoping to
lose a bit of weight on this expedition.... This is one of the largest
buildings in Lukla and made out of particularly finely worked stone
blocks about a foot long and 6" high which all fit together without
mortar with a gap thinner than a piece of paper. It is astonishing to
think that it takes a skilled mason three days to make just one of these
blocks. Over the main gate there is a single block 16 feet long which
must have taken a very long time to make, and the size of the original
rock it came from must have been huge.
You can't really go out of an evening because there is a curfew starting
at 7:30, it is supposed not to really apply for foreigners, but probably
best not to be on the street after that, and in any case one tends to go
to bed early here, 9 pm at the latest. There is a nice bar here though,
and they often get in a Karem board which is a sort of snooker withour
cue's on a flour covered table. I am completely hopeless at it.
Some of the film people left for Syangboche two days ago so they should
arrive there today. As soon as our fuel arrives a large number of
porters will carry most of it, plus all our kit and one of the trolleys
up there too to establish our 'advanced base camp'. By all accounts the
strip there is in pretty good shape though there might be a bit of
repairing to do at one end. In some ways it is not a bad thing that the
weather is not looking too good at the moment because I can see it being
four or five days before we are really ready to operate from there
anyway.
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